Hair is more than just strands that grow from our heads. It carries cultural significance, personal identity, and historical context. Two popular hairstyles that often get confused are dreads and locs. While they might look similar to the untrained eye, there are important differences in their creation, maintenance, cultural roots, and even terminology.
What’s the Difference Between Dreads vs Locs?
When comparing dreads vs locs, the first thing to know is that these terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but they actually refer to different approaches to hair styling. Let’s break down the key differences.
Formation Process
Locs form through a careful, intentional process. People who wear locs typically start with a specific parting pattern and regularly maintain their hair through twisting, palm-rolling, or interlocking methods. The hair is trained to grow in a certain way, with regular maintenance sessions to keep the locs neat and defined.
Dreads, on the other hand, often form through a more natural or “free-form” approach. Some people create dreads by simply not combing their hair and letting it naturally matt together over time. Others might use the “neglect method,” where minimal intervention allows the hair to form dreads on its own.
Maintenance Requirements
The upkeep between dreads vs locs also differs significantly. Locs typically require regular retwisting at the roots, conditioning treatments, and specific washing methods. People with locs often visit professional stylists who specialize in loc maintenance.
Dreads might need less formal maintenance, especially if following a free-form approach. However, they still require washing and some care to prevent unwanted odors or buildup.
Cultural Context and Terminology
When discussing dreads vs locs, it’s important to understand the cultural context behind the terms. The word “dreadlocks” has historical connections to colonial perspectives, where Europeans described the hairstyle as “dreadful” when they encountered it in various cultures.
Many people, especially those within the Black community, prefer the term “locs” as it removes the negative connotation of “dread” while honoring the spiritual and cultural significance of the hairstyle. Locs have deep roots in Rastafarian, African, and other cultural traditions where they hold spiritual and personal significance.
Historical Roots: Dreads vs Locs Through Time
The history of both dreads and locs goes back thousands of years across multiple continents. This isn’t just a modern fashion trend—it’s a hairstyle with deep historical significance.
Ancient Origins
Evidence of loc-like hairstyles appears in ancient Egypt, where mummies have been discovered with their locs still intact. Ancient Greek texts describe the Spartans wearing their hair in styles similar to locs. In ancient India, holy men known as sadhus have worn their hair in “jata” (a form of locs) as a spiritual practice for centuries.
Cultural Significance
In Rastafarian culture, locs hold spiritual meaning, representing the Lion of Judah and a connection to African identity. The growth of locs symbolizes patience, wisdom, and spiritual growth.
For many people of African descent, embracing locs represents a connection to heritage and rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards. When comparing dreads vs locs in cultural context, it’s important to acknowledge these deeper meanings beyond just fashion.
Starting Your Journey: Dreads vs Locs for Beginners
If you’re considering starting either dreads or locs, there are several methods to begin the process.
Starting Locs
- Comb coils: A stylist creates small, spiral-shaped coils throughout the hair
- Two-strand twists: Hair is divided into sections and twisted in pairs
- Braid locs: Sections of hair are braided, eventually forming into locs
- Palm-rolling: Hand-rolling sections of hair between the palms
Starting Dreads
- Backcombing: Hair is teased toward the scalp to create knots
- Neglect/free-form method: Hair naturally forms dreads with minimal intervention
- Twist and rip: Sections are twisted then pulled apart to create texture
- Crochet method: A crochet hook pulls hair into tight knots
Each starting method for dreads vs locs creates a slightly different look and requires different levels of maintenance going forward.
Myths and Misconceptions About Dreads vs Locs
Let’s clear up some common misunderstandings:
“They’re dirty”
Both dreads and locs can be perfectly clean when properly maintained. Regular washing is part of the care routine for both styles. The difference is in how they’re washed—using specific techniques and products that clean without unraveling the hair.
“You can’t wash them”
This is completely false. Both dreads and locs should be washed regularly. The main difference between dreads vs locs in terms of washing is the technique and products used, not whether they’re washed at all.
“They’re the same thing”
As we’ve discussed, while dreads and locs may look similar, they often involve different formation methods, maintenance approaches, and cultural contexts.
“You can’t undo them”
While it takes time and patience, both dreads and locs can be undone. Locs are often easier to undo in their early stages, while mature dreads might require cutting if they’ve been established for many years.
Hair Types and Dreads vs Locs
Different hair textures can achieve both dreads and locs, though the process and results will vary.
Coily/Kinky Hair (Type 4)
Type 4 hair naturally holds both locs and dreads well due to its coil pattern and texture. The hair’s natural ability to interlock with itself makes the formation process relatively straightforward. When comparing dreads vs locs for Type 4 hair, both styles can be achieved with relative ease, though the maintenance approaches differ.
Curly Hair (Type 3)
Curly hair can form both dreads and locs, though it might take longer than with Type 4 hair. The curls help the hair lock together, but additional techniques might be needed to help the process along.
Wavy Hair (Type 2)
Wavy hair can form dreads and locs but usually requires more intervention and maintenance than curlier textures. The dreads vs locs journey for wavy hair often involves more active techniques like backcombing or crochet methods.
Straight Hair (Type 1)
Straight hair is the most challenging for forming both dreads and locs. Without natural curl or coil patterns, the hair needs significant help to lock together. For straight hair, the dreads vs locs decision often leans toward dreads using methods like backcombing or crochet hooking rather than traditional locs.
Maintenance: Dreads vs Locs Care Routines
The ongoing care routines for dreads and locs have some similarities but also key differences.
Locs Maintenance
- Regular retwisting: Usually every 4-6 weeks
- Specific washing techniques: To clean without unraveling
- Oil treatments: For scalp and loc health
- Professional maintenance: Many loc wearers visit specialized stylists
- Covering at night: Often with silk or satin caps
Dreads Maintenance
- Palm rolling: To keep dreads tight and rounded
- Separating at roots: To prevent dreads from combining
- Residue-free washing: Using special shampoos without buildup
- Sea salt sprays: Some use these to tighten loose dreads
- Occasional deep cleaning: To remove buildup
When considering dreads vs locs from a maintenance perspective, locs often require more regular, systematic care, while some dread styles (especially free-form) might need less structured maintenance but still require attention.
The Journey: Stages of Dreads vs Locs
Both hairstyles go through several stages as they mature.
Loc Stages
- Starter stage: Initial formation of the pattern
- Budding stage: Locs begin to form and may appear bumpy
- Teen stage: Locs start to hang but aren’t fully mature
- Adult stage: Locs are established and hang more uniformly
- Mature stage: Fully formed locs with consistent pattern
Dread Stages
- Starter dreads: Initial formation, often loose and undefined
- Baby dreads: Beginning to knot but still fairly loose
- Teen dreads: More defined but still frizzy
- Mature dreads: Fully formed with less frizz
- Elder dreads: Very mature, often thicker and more dense
The timeline for these stages varies greatly depending on hair type, maintenance methods, and individual factors. When comparing the dreads vs locs timeline, locs with regular maintenance might progress through stages more uniformly than free-form dreads.
Cultural Appreciation vs. Appropriation: Navigating Dreads vs Locs
It’s impossible to discuss dreads vs locs without addressing the complex topic of cultural appropriation versus appreciation.
Locs and certain forms of dreads have deep cultural significance in Black and Rastafarian communities. When people outside these communities wear these styles without understanding or respecting their cultural importance, it can be seen as appropriation rather than appreciation.
The key difference lies in approach:
- Appreciation involves understanding the history, giving credit to the cultural origins, and respecting the significance
- Appropriation involves taking elements from a marginalized culture without understanding, acknowledgment, or respect
This conversation about dreads vs locs touches on larger issues of race, identity, and respect for cultural traditions. It’s worth researching and reflecting on these aspects before choosing either style.
Professional Environments: Dreads vs Locs in the Workplace
Historically, both dreads and locs have faced discrimination in professional settings. Many people have been denied jobs, asked to change their hair, or faced other forms of discrimination based on these natural hairstyles.
The good news is that progress is being made. Many places have passed CROWN Act legislation (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles in workplaces and schools.
Whether choosing dreads vs locs, it’s important to know your rights regarding hair discrimination and to support efforts toward hair equality in professional spaces.
Health Considerations: Dreads vs Locs
Both styles have potential health benefits and considerations:
Benefits
- Protection of hair ends from damage
- Low manipulation, which can reduce breakage
- No need for heat styling or chemical treatments
Considerations
- Potential weight that can cause tension on the scalp
- Possibility of fungal growth if not dried properly
- Risk of traction alopecia if installed too tightly
When weighing dreads vs locs from a health perspective, proper installation and maintenance are key factors in preventing any issues.
Making Your Choice: Dreads vs Locs
When deciding between dreads vs locs, consider:
- Your hair texture: Different methods work better for different hair types
- Maintenance time: How much time can you dedicate to hair care?
- Aesthetic preference: Do you prefer a more uniform (locs) or organic (some dread styles) look?
- Cultural context: Understanding the history and significance of the style you choose
- Professional environment: While discrimination is wrong and increasingly illegal, practical considerations may factor into your decision
Remember that both dreads vs locs represent a commitment. These aren’t styles you can install and remove quickly. They represent a journey with your hair that can last for years or even decades.
Conclusion: Dreads vs Locs – Similar Yet Different
While dreads and locs might appear similar to the untrained eye, they represent different approaches to hair styling with distinct cultural contexts, formation methods, and maintenance needs. The term you use—dreads vs locs—also carries meaning beyond just describing a hairstyle.
Whether you choose dreads or locs, either can be a beautiful expression of personal style, cultural connection, and natural hair celebration. The most important factors are education, respect for the cultural significance, and proper maintenance for healthy hair.
